Tuesday, November 13, 2007

Tenochtitlan and Xochimilco


Mexico City (est. 1524)was built over the site of the Aztec city of Tenochtitlan(est. 1325), which was founded on an island in a shallow lake, where the wandering people saw the sign they had been seeking - an eagle perched on a cactus devouring a serpent. The descriptions of Tenochtitlan given by Hernán Cortés and the other conquistadores show their awe at having discovered such a city, bigger than most cities they knew, more advanced in such things as plumbing, with a highly developed society,impressive architecture, and a lot of gold. And then they destroyed it.

About 24 kilometers away was Xochimilco, founded around 900 BC by the Xochimecos, who were never completely subjugated by either the Aztecs or the Spanish. They had developed an ingenious method of farming: they built up artificial islands (chinampas) in their lake where they were able to produce three crops a year. The conquistadores weren't just impressed by this; they recognized its usefulness to them. And so they didn't destroy it.

The chinampas, full of nurseries (viveros) are still there, connected by canals. Every weekend families and groups of friends float through the canals in trajineras, flat-bottomed boats lined with chairs and a table in the middle - perfect for a Sunday picnic. No need to bring your own food; vendors float by selling their own particular product - corn (elote)cooked over coals, beer, tacos and other antojitos, candy, even flowers for your table or plants to take home. No need to bring you own music either; other boats float by with mariachis, norteño bands or marimba. No need even to bring a crowd of companions; strike up a conversation with people on other boats as they float by.



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